Dishes are cooked as the chef envisions them, but sauces are on each table to add heat or spice as the diner wishes.

Wipe the wok and add a tablespoon of oil. When hot, add the shallots and chillies and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the squid rings and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes. Keep the wok on the heat, add the ...